“From the perspective of utter love for surfing, paddling was always okay, no matter how difficult, no matter how hopeless.
Good read overall though. Alle Boeddha citaten, wijsheden, quotes en uitspraken vindt u nu al 20 jaar op citaten.net.
Yet another typical book about surfing ... this time by a young man who runs off to Hawaii, where he wants to learn to surf and to find himself.
Don't read this. It was a quick read, but I didn't love it. Certainly, I am no longer "currently reading" this one. I would recommend this book to anyone with an interest in surfing, memoir, buddhism, and alternative life paths.
This is the principle of controlling things by going along with them, of mastery through adaptation.”, “So, without telling any of my Zen-snob buddies, I liked to pretend everything was the Pure Land, that my life was already perfect as it was.”, “I felt a taste of that other kind of contentment that doesn't come from acquiring information or getting praise or building a resume, the kind that is just there, like a hidden pearl.”, “But I looked out at the waves far below the bluff. I lived and breathed it every day I could. “Full fathom five thy father lies; Of his bones are coral made; Those are pearls that were his eyes; Nothing of him that doth fade But doth suffer a sea-change Into something rich and strange”, “Even though waves arise, the essence of mind is pure… Waves are the practice of water. The short chapters make a nice read when you're in a hammock somewhere; there are a few musings about philosophy, Zen buddhism and meditiation in between, and apart from that, there's nothing much to say! It also awakens in me a desire to surf. But if we begin to use our faculty of reasoning, our actions become slow and hesitant.”. Everything does. Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account. All we needed to do was let it pass. We all will die and rot and decay and be reborn as dirt or flowers or worms, or polar bears who will drown because their ice is all melting, or presidents of war-torn countries, or whales swimming around acidifying seas.
It's a quick read with a lot of insight. Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account. We create coconut clay soap made with organic coconut oil & bentonite clay from volcanic ash.
I can't focus once I figure out what is going to happen next and I fall out the reader's trance. It is a very enjoyable read that will make you feel like you are right there and the best thing you'll learn a lot too. And so it goes.”, “The body moves naturally, automatically, unconsciously, without any personal intervention or awareness. His most recent book, All Our Waves Are Water, is a Harper Collins memoir that The BBC called “Best Beach Read of 2017,” Spirituality and Health Magazine called a "Best Book of the Year" and The San Francisco Chronicle called “evocative…articulate, and genuinely funny.” Jaimal is also the author of Saltwater Buddha, a coming-of-age memoir about running away to Hawaii at 16 and eventually winding up at Columbia Journalism School.