Plus any extras that I don't know about. I just heat treated and tempered my blade to brown/straw as you showed here, but the edge was still too fragile and the tip broke. This results in higher surface and core hardness. Heating alloy above the transformation range, holding at this temperature, then cooling in air to a temperature below transformation range. I learned this method from $50 Knife Shop by Wayne Goddard. It is impractical because it is expensive. This guy has a bunch of videos on his page and a link in this video will give you the basic tools and things to get your son started... good luck and hope he enjoys knife making :), Tip Just a theory. Before you even start up the forge for the quench, prepare your work area by laying out all the tools and equipment you will need for the process. Most steels which can be hardened or case-hardened.

Metalworkers do this by placing the hot metal into a liquid or sometimes forced air. You won't be able to see past the surface of the oil, so I used nails to indicate the position and direction of the block below the oil. Take the quenched blade to your bench when it is cooled. The controlled hardening in restraining dies, of close tolerance components, such as gears, bearing races etc. - kitchen oven I found in all my years of metallurgy experience used diesel oil works the best and doesn't have to be warmed prior to using due to multitude of additives and relatively thin viscosity once used. The ribs of the clamps can hold the part in place. Favoured for large round or flat components; Elimination of distortion, and thereby reduction of post heat treatment machining; and.

The sequence I use is to heat the blade until it becomes non magnetic, then stick it back into the forge and push/pull the blade's full length through the heat once more, making sure the piece is evenly colored. I am from the UK, so 40°c is the temperature I was taught as a journeyman Smith. I've just priced up only half of what he would need and that's going to cost me over £500 which I don't have. okay, after reading this, there are some guides I can add. During the heat treating process, the surface of the steel was likely marred by scale buildup and oil residue, so it will be necessary to re-finish the blade to the desired level of quality. In fact he's obsessed with it and wants to start giving knife forging a go. Thanks.

I have found it happens more with laminated steels and the twisted damascus types. Favoured for large round or flat components; Elimination of distortion, and thereby reduction of post heat treatment … Cook your blade for one hour, allow it to cool to room temp, and return it to the oven for another hour. A normalized blade is more resistant to warping during the quench, although some degree of warping is unavoidable. Just be careful - if any part of you gets between the blade and magnet, you can get a red hot knife stuck to your finger! The quenching container MUST BE FIREPROOF! A regulator block is used to hold the blade at the correct depth. Tempering … I know it does happen, it has happened to me on occasion but it is VERY easy to fix, sometimes it is unavoidable. Anyway, I digress....but if there is one piece of advice I can offer, if you want to make lots of blades, make yourself a belt grinder/sander. Basically the purpose of this is merely to cool the metal at a slower rate to prevent stressing the metal to the point of fracture, and it also replenishes the carbon content in the steel allowing it to hold a sharp edge. - fire proof quench container with lid (I used an old cookie tin) Dunk the hot blade into the oil, onto the regulator block for approximately 15 seconds. Anyway once you have soaked it in the kiln at temp for many hours, leave it overnight, crack it open and you will have a case hardened Piece of steel. Compare the file's “bite” on the bevel to the unhardened area on the tang. It gets expensive because you need to weld a case, put the part in it with the hardening powder, then heat it extensively in a kiln which is expensive on the electricity supply. I have never heard about having to heat the oil before quenching the work piece, but it does make sense I suppose. The purpose of heat treating is to bring steel to a hardened state. The objective of press quenching is to hold the round and/or flat heated parts while they are being quenched. It seems like you may not have tempered 100% correctly.

This has to do with the metal you are using specifically. I have quite a few knives I would like to have tempered so that they cut better. After the 15 seconds, submerge the entire blade into the oil beside the block. Do not use plastic Tupperware! Remember, once it is hardened, it will be much more difficult to remove material via filing and sanding. I hear treated some blades last night and they came out COVERED in all kinds of crud, would you have any useful advice for me? Make sure you have a BC fire extinguisher (the kind that puts out grease/oil fires) nearby. Stage 1 includes hardening, in which the plate is austenitized to approximately 900°C and then quickly cooled. From here, work your way up through your stones to achieve the desired edge. The most important detail is that the knife enters the oil at or above critical temperature. $50 Knife Shop suggests the oil should be 90 – 140F , but I just used my finger to judge when the oil became bath-water warm.

With the specific "A" number of your metal, it seems to have few deoxidizers, meaning it will oxidize in the air quicker than if it had increased levels of Silicon, Aluminum, or Manganese. And at SST, we are highly-trained in these processes.

Specialized quenching treatment that is used to avoid/minimize distortion of the part and implement uniform hardening. This results in stress relieving, increased strength, and increased hardness. for wind power generation or heavy construction equipment), clutches, saw blades, slitting knives etc. In its hard and brittle state, the quenched blade will shatter like glass if dropped, it must be tempered before it is put to use. In order for the oil to provide the right qualities for quenching, it needs to be warmed.

Every piece of literature related to backyard knife making I could find gives a foreboding note about angry women coming after you for smoking up their kitchens by leaving motor oil covered steel scraps in the oven. Quenching and Tempering refer to two specific heat treating processes. The result is a tough final product with minimal distortion. Recommendations for tempering temperatures vary, If you know precisely what type of steel you are using, search online for the correct temperature. Tempering on the other hand, is much more specific. The quench and temper process, which includes austenitizing, quenching and tempering, is critical to ensure that each steel part has the exact properties needed to survive its environment while maintaining strength and durability. Rest a file on the bevel of the blade and move it back and forth, up and down the length. Question

The quenching medium I used was old motor oil. The edge is the thinnest part of the blade, and therefore more prone to cracking during the quench.

The Cr-containing heat-resistant steels are generally subjected to conventional heat treatment consisting of quenching at a high temperature with subsequent high-temperature tempering above 600 °C to achieve a good combination of strength and toughness as well as sufficient microstructural stabilities , , . You mentioned that when tempering a metal blade, it should be between 350-450 degrees Fahrenheit. Perhaps this is due to one side always being under more tension than the other due to the twist? 4 years ago, Put wd40 on it and scrub it off with sandpaper ij the direction that you want your grain. Forging and shaping the steal is done at a bright yellow/orange colour, 1700-2100 fahrenheit. I used the roughest stone I have (100 – 200 grit stone from the hardware store) to put the edge back on the blade. The controlled hardening in restraining dies, of close tolerance components, such as gears, bearing races etc. Mentally rehearse all of the steps you need to make. Typical applications include large circular or flat parts i.e. To make sure it's ready, you can get a magnet and hold the blade near it. As for the material you've been using, in my experience, anything that cuts is usually at least medium steel - so you're good there. Reply Make sure you have your container lid and a few sets of pliers. Hardening treatment of a carbon steel in an oil bath. Tempering and annealing are actually two different types of heat treatment. Wayne Goddard says that cold oil “is not wet enough”. Be sure to dry the blade before it goes in the oven. Pikachu Bedside Table - a Diy Furniture Project Inspired by Pokemon. 8 months ago.

Steel parts often require a specific form of heat treatment to obtain an increase in hardness and strength. IE 1" material would be kept at that temperature for 1 hour.

Varying the temperatures, while obeying the two critical temperatures and time constraints, should give you an ideal "temper". If all went well, the file should feel glassy as it slides across the bevel. Steel Heat treatment process in which precipitation of a constituent from a super saturated solid saturation causes hardening or “precipitation hardening” in metals. SST offers many types of fixture quenching, such as plug, fixture die and roll quenching. Once that has been accomplished, the metal is then taken to temperatures below the first transformation temperature, roughly 1100-1300 for 1 hour per inch of material.